Hamilton W10 AKA Khaki Pilot Pioneer – view the full range of Hamilton watches on AMJ Watches here.

I seem to have become cynical when I read, or hear, that another well established brand has released yet another military vintage re-edition. Any new addition to this already bloated market would need to be very special for me to take interest.

This is why I am delighted to introduce you to the new Hamilton W10 re-edition. This watch has an interesting story to tell, as most re-editions do to be fair, a fantastic movement and an affordable price point that puts most other luxury brands to shame.

However, the initial appeal is the triumphant aesthetics.

Images courtesy of Hamilton

The W10 was originally requested by and supplied to the Royal Air Force between 1973 and 1976. W10 was a nomenclature that was assigned to a certain type and level of equipment from the MOD for Army, Navy and Royal Air Force. Therefore, Hamilton were not the only watch brand creating a W10 timepiece. CWC and Smiths were also requested to create similar items.

Image courtesy of Hamilton

The case is a reflection of this period. I think my reticence towards military editions is derived through the homogeny in case design of the 1940s. Stark dials in round cases are too ubiquitous now. This lack of design freedom was as a result of the strict specifications imposed by the particular military groups. In all fairness, every watch collector should own one of the most famous of these variants, a Dirty Dozen. But only one. There are twelve manufacturer’s offerings to choose from. As you can see below, you’d be hard pushed to tell which manufacture you were looking at if it wasn’t for their own logo.

The case on the W10, on the other hand, looks like it has been lovingly whittled into shape and then hand finished. It hasn’t been, of course, because the price point defies this. But, it is a nice illusion.

Speaking of what is possible at this price point: the double box glass would be financially crippling if it was made of sapphire glass. Instead this is a more sensible hardened mineral glass. In some aspects this is easier to live with day by day because it can easily be refurbished when you get the inevitable small marks and also you get much less surface reflections as you do with sapphire glass. Hamilton’s belt and braces attitude further adds double side anti-reflective coating anyway. The reflection free legibility allows the wearer to indulge in the symmetrical, textured dial and faux patina swords hands. The dial is completed by a traditional train track outer ring.

The pseudo in-house H-50 movement is hand wound and offers 80 hours power reserve. This is achieved mainly by reducing the cadence of the movement. Concerns could be forgiven in thinking that this would affect the accuracy. However, I own one of the standard Khaki Field watches, with this movement, and it maintains 2 seconds per day. Despite this being my beater of choice and being subjected to climbing, road cycling, mowing and mountain biking. So, through my own experience you would only have the benefits of the impressive power reserve, which is double that of the standard, without any of the drawbacks.

The movement is hand wound with a simple three hand configuration, perfectly mirroring the original. Speaking of which, the case size is also a relevant 36mm x 33mm.

This wonderfully crafted marvel is also water resistant to 100m giving further peace of mind as a daily wearer. 

And why would you not want to wear this watch daily. It looks amazing and sits very comfortably on all wrist sizes. Most of this can be contributed to the NATO straps on offer. I confess that I am not a fan of NATO straps. They seem over complicated and overpriced normally. The standard Hamilton NATO strap is fairly generic, but this is not a bad thing, given that I am in the minority and they are very popular. However, I love the leather NATO strap option. It’s slightly more expensive but definitely worth it. Normally, leather straps are married to dress watches to add an element of luxury. This would not be pertinent with a utilitarian timepiece such as the W10. The immediate simplicity of the leather NATO strap, however, looks like it has been hand made in the field as a make do replacement. However, closer inspection, as you would expect, highlights that the austerity of the strap hides very nice detail and finishing. If you prefer the standard NATO, and why not because it is a reflection of the original, it is a cut above the usual with a leather shroud around the holes for an added bit of luxury and strength.

Images courtesy of Hamilton

Conclusion.

Once again Hamilton has defied all economical logic with their latest covetable timepiece. I defy you to find a watch with this level of specification for the asking price of £720 on NATO and £770 on leather. 

The hand wound quasi in-house movement with 80 hours power reserve punches above its price point. As does the hand finished tonneau case. As does the intricately textured dial. As does the level of finishing which, despite there being no polished edges, is still meticulously applied.

Value for money doesn’t get us across the line in a luxury watch purchase. The W10 is still relatively expensive against what a watch can be bought for at your local flea market. So, we need to want the W10. Thankfully, there are desirable elements abound. Chief amongst them is the aesthetics that have been transposed over 50 years with consummate sympathy. However, the W10 isn’t just an exercise in existentialism for the original. It is a covetable timepiece in its own right and, unlike most re-editions, does not rely on the history of the original to create desirability.

So, thankfully, the W10 is a desirable luxury item with fantastic value proposition.

What’s not to like. I’ll take one on the leather.

All words by Richard Atkins. All images by the author unless credited. This article may not be reproduced in part or in whole without permission of the author.

View the full range of Hamilton watches on AMJ Watches – available with 0% interest free credit and £0 deposit.

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Following on from a successful and illustrious collection of clean water conservation limited edition timepieces, Oris introduced the Aquis Lake Baikal at the beginning of the year.

Ocean Conservation has, rightly, become the hot topic of recent years. David Attenborough’s heartfelt pleas for us to consider how we are ruining the two thirds of the planet which are our oceans, and the countless water bound wonders that dwell there, were backed up by horrendous images of our out-of-control waste disposal directly into these aquatic domains. Something had to be done.

Oris were one of the first luxury brand to consider the very oceans that their professional rated Aquis timepieces were encouraging professional, amateur, SCUBA and snorkel divers to use as their playgrounds. 

Previous limited edition diver’s timepieces, from this 115 year old luxury brand, include the Clean Ocean, Clipperton, Hammerhead, Staghorn, Source of Life and Great Barrier Reef. All sold out quickly and all offered a percentage of their sale to relevant charities and organisations. Along with these proceeds to very good causes, an awareness was created amongst an appropriate clientele and user base. The above family of coveted Limited Editions also highlight Oris’ determination to assist, and create awareness, for many aspects of water bound life and environments that are craving our attention before we ruin them.

Oris have chosen, once again, to use their impressive Aquis timepiece to bring attention to Lake Baikal, the immense freshwater lake in Siberia. Measuring an incredible 1642 meters at its deepest point, Lake Baikal holds 20% of the worlds fresh water reserves. Scientist believe this incredible and natural body of water to be over 25 million years old. It has over 300 rivers flowing into it and is home to over 1000 indigenous plants and fish species. Oris aspires to create funds through the sale of this special timepiece and awareness for the 75 year running “Point No. 1” foundation, a conservation project directed by the Scientific Research Institute of Biology at Irkutsk State University. This is the longest running and most detailed environmental water monitoring venture in scientific history. A team of seven scientists work and live year round at the Point No. 1 facility.

These hardy scientists identify zooplankton and phytoplankton from water samples, taken in the summer, and ice samples, taken in the long winter months. From these samples the specialists can monitor ongoing patterns that help them monitor the health of the lake and its inhabitants. Despite the importance of this vital work the project is frequently threatened by closure. Oris recognises the importance of the continuation of Point No.1 and is donating a percentage from the sale of the 1999 pieces, which is the year Russia adopted the Baikal Law, introduced to protect the lake.

“Water is the source of life,’ says Rolf Studer, Oris Co-CEO. ‘We believe passionately in conserving it for future generations, and also in acting responsibly as citizens of the world to bring positive change. Every year we seek out pioneering organisations who share these values and work to protect the world’s water. We’re very proud to be working with the Lake Baikal Foundation and to be supporting the work of ‘Point No.1’ as it continues its vital research and raises awareness of pollution and the urgent need for clean water.’

The Aquis Lake Baikal is 43.5mm in diameter, which are perfect dimensions for the utilitarian style whilst still offering wearer comfort. The dial is a gradient blue, in the on trend fume style. This pantone perfectly re-imagines the clear waters of Lake Baikal, during the summer months, and fades from a gorgeous bright blue to a deep sapphire blue as a reflection, quite literally, of the crystal clear waters through the differing lighting conditions. This is complemented by a ceramic bezel in that same luxurious hue.

This Aquis model is identical to the well-proven models within the family with a surgical grade steel case, a screw down crown, facilitating 300m water resistance, Superluminova© applied to all dial indexes and hands, the afore-mentioned uni-directional rotating bezel and a multi-link bracelet with folding clasp unit and diver’s extension.

The case back is excusive to this model and represents the ice covered lake from above during the winter season where -21°C temperatures are regularly witnessed.

The Oris Aquis Lake Baikal Limited Edition is presented in a unique box. The retail price is £1850 and will be available at Andrew Michaels Jewellers from February 2020.

If you’re looking for an Oris watch while you’re waiting for general release of the Oris Aquis Lake Baikal, browse the rest of our Oris range at AMJ Watches (available with 0% interest and £0 deposit) today.

The post Oris Aquis Lake Baikal Limited Edition Review appeared first on AMJ Watches Blog.

Seiko EPD – The Best Digital Watch Ever!

 

INTRODUCTION

I need to start this review with a bit of a confessional: My name is Rick. I am a watch geek. I have recently had feelings toward a digital watch. There, I’ve said it.

One of the main reasons I love watches is because I respect truly high end watch making. I could bore even the most die-hard watch fan senseless about my Zenith Striking Tenth and Seiko Spring Drives. I’ve never had the time of day (pun intended) for digital watches. They are, by and large, mass produced by machines, as opposed to the hand crafted personal involvement required to produce an accurate and reliable mechanical movement. I appreciate that the components of even the most ludicrously expensive mechanical timepieces will have been produced by machines, but there is still a charm and character of any mechanical ebauche that is lacking from an electronic movement. Understandably, I would never have entertained any thoughts about coveting such a watch. Until now that is. The Seiko Active Matrix e-ink Electrophoretic Display watch (Seiko EPD for short) has well and truly caused me to revoke my prejudices. I hate having my deep felt beliefs questioned. Damn you, you technical boffins at Seiko.

Please allow me to excuse myself for this seemingly blatant hypocrisy:

First of all, we have the pioneering technology that is the Active Matrix e-ink Electrophoretic Display that has been miniaturised to fit in this 46mm x 46mm timepiece. This presentation method has, of course, been utilised in the glut of e-readers that have swamped the market of late.

This is another gadget (because watches are fundamentally gadgets on your wrist) that I will not be enthusing over any time soon. Give me a book with a folded down corner, to highlight the page I’m on, and an abused spine (the book’s, not mine) and I’m much happier. And don’t get me started on streaming music! Crikey, it seems I really am an old fashioned curmudgeon. Well, all that changed recently because I love the technology utilised that creates the unique (for a watch) display of the Seiko EPD.

TECHNOLOGY

The Seiko EPD was released in December 2010 and was, reportedly, an instant hit in the Japan. The Japanese love their technology, and what wonderfully innovative technology this is.

The main components of the active matrix for the Electrophoretic Display are the millions of microscopic capsules, each of which are about the diameter of a human hair. Each of these microcapsules contains negatively charged white particles and positively charged black particles. These are held within a translucent fluid. When a negative electric field is applied to the microcapsule the white particles move to top of the display, effectively making that “dot” white. A positive electric field applied to the microcapsule obviously has the opposite effect and turns it black.

This sounds simple in principal but the cleverness and sophistication lies within the control of the 300 dpi (dots per square inch). The drawback to this aesthetically pleasing display technology is the slow refresh rate. It does take a bit of getting used to. Basically, you learn to wait about a couple of seconds after pressing one of the buttons before pressing the next. It’s only a mild inconvenience and never gets as annoying as a slow touch screen where you activate something accidentally because where you pressed the screen wasn’t actually the icon you wanted because it hadn’t updated yet. With the EPD nothing happens if you press the buttons too quickly so you never activate the wrong option. Interestingly, I timed myself navigating from the time display to the Alarm display, setting an alarm and then returning to the main time display. It took 1 minute and 12 seconds. Make of that what you will. Apparently, the EPD has the ability to perform at the speeds required but it would be ruinous to power consumption.

 

The slow refresh rate is the reason there is no stopwatch or countdown functions on this digital watch. These are usually givens on a digital watch, of course. However, let us not forget that this is only a digital watch due to the time display Seiko have chosen. They could have easily chosen an analogue time display with the display resolution on offer. A seconds hand would have been impossible at this juncture, of course, due to the aforementioned refresh rate.

This avante garde gadgetry would be meaningless if the watch display itself was an aesthetic mess. Joy of joys, then, because it looks gorgeous. Each numeral is now highly detailed as only a 300dpi display can achieve and this even includes the fully scripted date with letter and numbers only 1mm²in size. (This is nearly twice as detailed as a smartphone display which is currently about 160ppi!)

 

 

 

The black and white monochromatic display may seem a little archaic in today’s world of 65536 colours that current high end smartphones can display, but this is not the point. E-readers are meant to replicate the experience of reading a book. They really do look very similar in this regard. The Seiko EPD benefits from this type of display due to its warm and natural appearance that never becomes fatiguing. I love its subtlety. Keeping the smartphone as an analogy the EPD screen is also visible at the most acute of angles, which is a further benefit over the standard digital watch displays.

 

The Seiko EPD gains its accuracy from the world’s atomic clocks via radio signals that are received automatically twice a day. The radio signal can also be received manually at any point by the user.

 

This, in effect, gives the Seiko EPD an accuracy of +/- 1 second in every 100,000 years! If you are not within the receiving areas for the radio signal the S770 movement is still accurate to within 15 seconds a month. The time transmitted is UTC (Universal Time, Coordinated) so the Seiko EPD has a function that allows the user to select when it is Daylight Savings Time. The four current transmitters are DCF77 located in Mainflingen in Germany, MSF in Anthorm in England, WWVB in Denver in USA, JJY40 in Fukushima in Japan and JJY60 in Northern Kyusyu in Japan. These have a range of about 1000km so you may be able to receive signals in some parts of neighbouring countries. I’ve no idea if there are plans to increase this coverage in the future, but it does seem a little remiss to me.

The Seiko EPD gains all of its power from light sources (not necessarily direct sun light). Therefore, there is never any need to change a battery. When the watch has not been exposed to light for one hour it goes into Power Save mode. Simply press any button or expose it to light again and it will wake up. If it remains in the shadows for 24 hours it will go into sleep mode. In each of these modes the time and date are maintained but automatic radio reception is dormant. The power reserve is 9 months in normal mode and 41 months in sleep mode. The EPD cannot be overcharged so don’t worry about it receiving too much sun, not that I have to anyway living here in the UK. Incidentally, “Power Save” and “Sleep Mode” are displayed on the screen of the Seiko EPD during the aforementioned modes. Due to the way the EPD works this does not use any power to do this. It is the changing of the display only that uses power.

FEATURES

The Seiko EPD is operated using five buttons. These are indicated below:

 

Due to the nature of the display the Seiko EPD has 5 different highly detailed time display modes. The first is a high resolution font highlighting the time, day and date in black with a white background. Display number 3 is the negative of this. Display number 2 is a cool retro time only style with white numbers on a black and grey background. There again Display 4 is the negative of this. Display 5 is very unique and playful in that it presents the hour using playing cards. The minute is shown in the corner of the screen normally. I guess this more of a technology demonstration than for any practical way to tell the time but I still really like it.

Display 1

Display 2

Display 3

Display 4

Display 5

Additionally, the time can be displayed as hours, minutes and seconds for one minute by pressing the Back Button during any of the above time displays.

 

Upon pressing the function button the above displays can be chosen one at a time in sequence by then pressing the left option button. Pressing the right option button takes you to the Info screen. In addition to the time and date this highlights whether DST has been selected, how many alarms are active, which time zone has been selected and the last date the time reference signal was automatically received.

Pressing the Function button twice takes you to the Menu screen with the options to enter the World Time, Alarm, Radio Wave and Settings screens.

 

The World Time screen highlights the city of the second time zone selected on a detailed globe. The 32 separate time zones (even those only 15 minutes apart) can all be selected using the options buttons to either go backwards or forwards. I love this display and it is one of the main reminders of what is capable with this active matrix technology on this scale. I often set the second time zone to London (I live in the UK) and used this as my normal time display.

 

Three Alarms can be employed. These can be individually set to go off once or daily. The Alarm is suitably loud.

 

The Radio Wave screen is where the Atomic Time Signal can be manually received, which is useful if the watch has been in dark storage for awhile. The time signal takes only a couple of minutes to receive in my experience. There is also a “Record” option. This shows when the automatic signal was last received.

 

In Settings the options include Home City & DST, where you can set your home time zone and turn the Daylight Savings on or off, Adjust Time, for those users outside the Atomic Time signal reception areas, Home <-> Local, which allows you to switch between your home time zone and that of the second time zone you have chosen in World Time and Alarm Test, which speaks for itself.

 

Additional details worth mentioning are the more-than-adequate 100m water resistance, the twin LEDs for night time viewing (which should come with a health warning due to their intensity), the scratch proof sapphire glass, the surgical grade stainless steel employed by Seiko and the low weight to size ratio, which makes the Seiko EPD very comfortable to wear.

 

 

 

 

 

CONCLUSION

I love the schizophrenic nature of this watch:
On the one hand (wrist?) the Seiko EPD is totally autonomous. The power, the date and the timekeeping are never a concern for the owner. This is something I’ve not been used to with my love of mechanical timepieces and my previous aversion to digital watches. I was frequently having to reset them after the power reserve had run down, change the date at the end of the month and even having to periodically adjust the time, even if they didn’t run the mainspring down due to the non-munificent accuracy(?) of +4/-3 seconds a day regulation on even the best mechanical watches. This latter point is of course mute with my exceptional Spring Drive pair (+2 seconds/month for one and -3 seconds/months for the other!).

On the other hand the Seiko EPD is very tactile and engaging when you choose it to be. The display can be changed to suit the mood, a plethora of information can be displayed, the atomic clock time can be received at will from the radio stations that transmit such information, etc, etc.

The Seiko EPD is, however, far from perfect:

The screen update is very slow if you are used to the functionality of a smartphone, tablet or even a standard digital watch. It’s never torturous but it doesn’t reflect the high end technological nature of the rest of the watch. Also, I would have liked to have seen more options for the displays. I do really like the standard time display with its crisp clear high resolution numerals and letters, the retro display and the unique deck of cards display. Having the opportunity to flip to a negative version of the former two really does make a difference as well. However, I think the opportunity to really go to town on these high res displays was missed. The playing card screen, radio signal update screen and second timezone screen are all testament to this. Perhaps this will be addressed in a future version once the market for this anomalous creation has been determined.

The lack of stopwatch and countdown timer (due to the screen refresh rate issues commented on earlier) may cause some to gripe or wonder what is the point. They may even infer that this £1250 (July 2012) watch is ridiculous. But this is one of the reasons I love the Seiko EPD. There’s a certain indulgence about having something so extraneous and superfluous. We could debate until we’re blue in the face about whether this groundbreaking timepiece is worth the asking price. On the face of it a £1250 digital watch does seem incongruous from a normally sensible Japanese company. However, you have to metaphorically approach this watch from so many new angles simply because it is exceptionally unique and such a brave statement from the company that wreaked havoc on the Swiss industry in the 1970s when they brought out the first quartz watches. The Seiko EPD can be thought of as a celebration of technology. It can also be heralded as a very clever autonomous timepiece. It took incredible imagination to conjure up the Seiko EPD. The very least we can do is reciprocate. I’m not sure this watch could have been even considered for development by any other Manufacture other than Seiko. Their loyal fraternity of fans are a fairly receptive collective. Those in the know realise that Seiko are as about as high end as you can get outside of Geneva. I urge you to check out the Grande Seiko lines and, even more impressive, the Credor collection of haute hologorie (can we apply this French language moniker to a Japanese company? I certainly think so). Seiko are the possibly the only brand with the heritage, technical know-how, courage and incredible record of being the instigators of, and investors in, new technology that has become the benchmark. There is nothing circumspect about Seiko and they are one of my favourite brands because of this.

The satellite signal can only currently be received in four places. This should not be a deal breaker for anyone interested in the unique character of the Seiko EPD but it is one of the main strings to its bow that is currently not available to the vast majority of the world.

As a closing statement I just want to say that I would not go as far as to say that the Seiko EPD has led me to have an epiphany but I do love it and that is something I thought I would never say about a digital watch. However, I feel justified in my sudden change of heart by re-affirming my claim that I think this is, by far, the best digital watch in the world available today.

 

All words and images by Rick Atkins, unless otherwise stated. This article may not be reproduced in part or whole without the permission of the author.

 

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Seiko Astron GPS Solar – Most Accurate Watch Ever

 

Introduction:

Have you ever asked yourself what the perfect watch would actually be? To pontificate over this horological perfection we first need to ask what is a watch actually for. The obvious answer is to tell the time. However, I would hazard a guess that 99% of watches on the planet are not telling the correct time. The reason for this is that watches, even the superquartz variety that are guaranteed to lose or gain no more than 15 seconds per year, are generally not set to an accurate source. They are also not regularly reset to the correct time.
Another ideal for the perfect watch would be for it to have no requirement from the user to supply its energy, whether it is being worn or not. Battery powered watches will need to have a new power source installed every three to five years on average. Mechanical watches either need to be hand wound or require the movement of the user. The latter seems ideal until you realise that you have to wear the watch pretty much all the time and maintain a certain level of movement yourself. Again no where near perfect.

Finally, the ideal watch should maintain the date for its owner and change the time to any one of the 39 local timezones wherever they may travel to on the planet.

So, what if there were such a watch that gained its power from any light source, regularly received an updated correction on its timekeeping and date from atomic clocks and recognised where you were on the planet and set the time accordingly? Allow me to introduce to you the incredible Seiko Astron GPS Solar.

This extraordinary watch’s main claim to fame is that, at the touch of button, it will be able to determine wherever you on the planet and set the time accordingly. This is by the use of GPS (Global Positioning Satellites). These GPS have onboard atomic clocks that are accurate to 1 second every 100,000 years. Therefore, these are accurate to 1 second in every 3.155 x 10^12 seconds. My quick maths equates this to an accuracy of 99.9999999999996831% accuracy. Which is enough I reckon. Or, to put it another way. If the average person was given one of these watches at birth it would have only lost or gained 0.75 milli seconds maximum by the time they passed their watch on to a next of kin in their will.

Now, listen to me carefully because I’m only going to explain this once and there is a lot going on here.

Functions:

Expose dial to any light. With full power reserve the watch will run for approximately 6 months. The solar panel is also used to sense when the wearer is outside. In this instance the Astron will automatically perform a Time/Time zone check.

 

The Left Display is used to highlight several items of information:

 

In normal mode the indicator will show how much power reserve remains. This is a simple F for full and E for empty gauge. This is purely to highlight whether there is enough reserved power for a successful signal reception. The movement of the seconds hand will indicate when the power reserve is getting low. If it jumps every two or five seconds the Astron will be unable to receive a GPS signal to allow it to correct the time or time zone.

At the top of the indicator the “1” and “4+” highlight signal strength when trying to perform a time or time zone check. This indicator is also used to determine whether a time or time zone check was last performed. If the indicator points to “1” then just a time check has been performed. I’m sure you can work the rest out.

At the centre of the display is a plane symbol. If the indicator points to this symbol the Astron is in Flight mode. This is a safety mode which stops all incoming GPS signals that could cause interference with a plane’s onboard electronic systems.
At the very bottom the DST (Daylight Savings Time) is highlighted as being ON or OFF.

There is also a 24 hour indicator at the 6 o’clock position, which can be set to 1 minute increments, and a date aperture at 3 o’clock, which will be automatically set to the nearest timezone during a successful GPS signal reception.

Despite the myriad of functions and checks that can be performed on the Astron only three buttons are used.
Checks:

 

Pressing button A and immediately releasing it allows the checking of the DST setting.

Pressing button B and immediately releasing it allows the use to check if the last GPS reception was successful and whether it was for the time only or the time zone. In this instance the second hand will point to the “Y” or “N” on the chapter ring and the “1” or “4+” on the left indicator, for time or time zone, respectively.

Pressing button C and immediately releasing it checks which time zone the watch has been set to. To allow this the second hand will point to the numbers on the outside of the chapter ring. For Example UTC for London and -5 for New York.

Pressing Button A during any of the above checks will return the watch back to normal time display mode.

Receiving a time check GPS signal:
This function is performed automatically should the solar panel within the dial detect that the wearer is outside. However, this function can be performed on demand by following these protocols:

Pressing Button B for 3 seconds. At this point the seconds hand will move to the 12 o’clock position before moving clockwise between the 1 o’clock and 4o’clock position to indicate the GPS reception strength. After about 1 minute the seconds hand will first jump to the “Y” on the chapter ring before moving the correct time. If the seconds hand jumps to the “N” on the chapter ring the GPS signal reception was not strong enough to perform a time check.

NOTE: During December in a leap year (which is when this article was written ironically) the Astron will receive a leap second, which is included to compensate for deviations from the Universal Time (UT), which is astronomically determined, and the International Atomic Time. During this reception the left indicator will point to slightly beyond the “+4” position.

On the one occasion that I did time the GPS reception I simply took two steps from my porch and it took just 38 seconds.

Receiving a time zone check GPS signal:

This is achieved by pressing Button B for 6 seconds. At this point the seconds hand will move to the 6 o’clock position before moving clockwise between the 1 o’clock and 4o’clock position to indicate the GPS reception strength. After about 1 minute the seconds hand will first jump to the “Y” on the chapter ring before moving the correct time zone. If the seconds hand jumps to the “N” on the chapter ring the GPS signal reception was not strong enough to perform a time zone check.

I’ve known owners of so-called radio controlled watches who have really struggled to receive a signal in anything but wide open spaces and whilst they were perfectly stationary. The Astron had no similar issues with receiving a signal. I managed to successfully reset the time in my conservatory and at an outside window. More amazing is that I was also able to perform this whilst in a moving vehicle! The hefty manual that comes with Astron clearly states that there will be areas where reception is more difficult to achieve than others. However, I would have no quarms in recommending this to someone who lived in a built up area.

There is a note of warning in the manual that states that the correct time zone may not be set when you are close to the border of another timezone.

Setting the Astron to Flight mode:

Press button B and then press button C for 3 seconds within 5 seconds of button B being pressed. The second hand will jump to the 8 o’clock position and the left indicator will now point to the plane symbol. Simply reverse the above protocols to turn the Flight Mode off.

Turning the DST On or Off:

Press and release Button A. Then press Button C for 3 seconds within 5 seconds of pressing Button A. The left indicator will change to “ON” or “OFF” and the hour hand will move one hour forwards or backwards, depending on the original DST setting.
Adjusting the time, time zone and date manually (should you be a serious agoraphobic or a speleologist).

To manually adjust the time unscrew the crown and pull it out to the second position. Press button A for three seconds. The seconds hand will move to the 12 o’clock position. Press buttons B or C to adjust the time backwards or forwards.

To set the date unscrew the crown and pull it out to the second position. Now simply press Button B or Button C to advance or return one day.

 

To adjust the time zone manually press and hold Button C for three seconds. Then simply press button B or C to increase or decrease the time zone, respectively.

Adjusting the 24 hour indicator:

 

This is simply achieved by unscrewing the crown to the first position and pressing either Button B or Button C. Pressing and holding Button B will start the dial to rotate clockwise. Pressing it again will stop this. Single presses of Button B will move the 24 hour indicator anti-clockwise in 1 minute increments. Utilising Button C will perform the same functionality but in an anti-clockwise direction.

Now, I appreciate that the myriad of protocols above do take quite a lot to consume and digest. However, the Astron is very simple to use with very little practice. As I hinted at during the introduction: The Astron could become autonomous if the user regularly exposes the watch face to sunlight. In this case the Astron will receive all the power it needs to function and will regularly receive time correction updates.
Incidentally, if the Astron is not allowed to receive time updates, for whatever reason, the quartz regulator within the movement is accurate to 1/10th per day, which is still not too shoddy.

Technology and materials:

To achieve all of this Seiko has come up with incredible proprietary technology. Over 100 patent applications were made during the 10 year development of the Astron GPS. Seiko designed a new miniature GPS receiver that requires hardly any energy (about 1/5th of usual receivers) to receive the GPS signals from four or more satellites. To give you an idea of the amount of energy required to receive the GPS signal once is equivalent to the second hand moving 10,000,000 times. This is the equivalent of the seconds hand being propelled for over 3 and half months! The ceramic bezel houses the aerial for the GPS reception. This is to allow the GPS signal to be gained with the least possible power consumption. If the aerial were housed within the steel or titanium case it would require much greater power.

The technology does not stop at the functionality either. The materials are also straight from the R and D department. The high-density titanium utilised in two of three models available has been created by Seiko and is stronger and yet 60% lighter than Stainless Steel. This allows the case and bracelet to weigh a mere 135 grams. It can also be polished to a mirror finish, further adding high end feel of this incredible timepiece. The strap included with the stainless steel version of the Astron is made of a new extra strength silicon material that is stronger and more subtle than other rubber-type straps on the market. I cannot attest to its strength but I can say that that it is very malleable which results in incredible comfort, given the 47mm girth and 16.5mm depth. The silicon strap comes on a double deployment clasp. The sapphire glass has a new “Super Clear-Coating” by Seiko. This may sound like sales babble but in reality this new coating really does make a difference and the superb dial remains legible in the most extreme illumination and at the most acute viewing angles.

 

Details:

The Seiko Astron GPS is available in three variants: The SAST003 which is a standard run all Titanium version, the SAST007, which is a limited edition PVD black Titanium version (see images below) and teh stainless steel SAST009 (highlighted in this review).

 

 

 

 

 

The Astron GPS is a thick watch (dimension wise and, most definitely, not intelligence wise). This depth has been put to aesthetically intriguing use with one of the most topographical dials I’ve seen. The hour markers are so visually strong they appear to have structural relevance, like the stanchions of an Olympic Stadium. Each of the 24 hour and flight/DST/power/GPS indicators are also elevated and add yet further ocular interest.

 

 

 

 

The Solar receiver is just visible under certain light conditions giving the Astron GPS a technical look. However, what is not so immediately obvious, requiring the life-giving sunlight to become apparent, is the wonderful and relevant sunburst effect on the dial. Add to this the optical illusion that the scripts seem to levitate from the dial and it all combines to provide a dial with a lot of visual interest.

 

 

Seiko’s luminosity tends to be class leading and the Astron GPS is typical of this. The hands shine green and the hour markers remain their pastel blue throughout the night.

 

 

As mentioned above the ceramic bezel was chosen to house the new patented aerial for the GPS receiver, and not just the usual reasons of strength and image.

 

 

The caseback is screw down, allowing 100m water resistance. Another impressive figure, which will permit uninterrupted service in harsh conditions, is the 4800A/m magnetic resistance.

 

One of my personal disappointments is the painted finish on the hands. I appreciate that this is subjective but I feel that the hands would have been more appropriate in the usual polished brass. This would have tied it in nicely with the contrasting polished and satin case and the ceramic bezel. There are so many other high end, well thought out details on this watch, from the applied logo on the dial to the applied and bevel-edged subdial/indicator to the subtle-yet-functional pushbuttons, etc, etc, that the hands simply seem a little out of place.

 

Also, whilst I’m having a bit of a dig, the silicon strap is extraneously long. I admit that I have below-average 6.5” wrists, due mainly to my below average height. However, I do have reasonably sized 10.5” forearms and the silicon strap fits comfortably round this. Is there anyone out there with 10.5” wrists? Incidentally, I wear the Astron GPS with three holes in the silicon strap remaining. I can understand Seiko wanting to increase the possible client base by offering a range of 4.5 inches in wrist size but it mean that average people are left with superfluous strap. There is a very nicely finished and detailed strap collar. I wonder if Seiko expect wearers like myself to cut the strap down carefully and hide their handiwork under the collar.

 

 

 

 

Conclusion:

I love the Astron GPS and I hate my wrist. For anyone with a wrist size over 7” this really is the most incredible feat of electrical engineering and horology combined. Purists may scoff at the electronics but for those looking for an always-correct timepiece that requires no intervention and which is stress free with regards to the usual issues of power loss due to the battery going flat or the mainspring running down the Astron GPS Solar is most definitely for you.

The technology, materials R and D time, patents and resulting benefits to the user are enough to warrant the asking price in itself. However, I love the design of the Seiko Astron GPS Solar as well. I would be happy and proud to wear this watch, despite my usual bias towards electronic watches, if it weren’t so blummin’ big. 46mm is, sadly, too big for me. The Astron is also a thick watch. Even still, the ergonomics have been well thought out (what hasn’t on this watch?) resulting in a watch that, although looks cumbersome, is very comfortable to wear.

 

The Astron GPS gives on so many different levels: It is, primarily, a well-built and great looking watch. It also offers interactivity as well as bragging rights down the pub, because no-one else, unless they also own a Seiko Astron GPS, will have the most accurate watch ever created.

The Seiko Astron GPS is one of those timepieces that must have other manufacturers thinking “Now why didn’t we think of that?……Although, if we had would we have been able to create such a watch anyway?”

 

All words and images by Rick Atkins, unless otherwise stated. This article may not be reproduced part or in whole without the permission of the author.

 

The post Seiko Astron GPD: The Most Accurate Watch Ever appeared first on AMJ Watches Blog.

Seiko Anantas – Unrivalled Bang per Buck…..Yen, Pound, whatever.

After spending some quality time with these superb Seiko Ananta timepieces I’m left with the over-riding feeling that Seiko have been a victim of their own success. Allow me to explain: There are literally thousands of watch brands currently in business around the world. These range from the horological hand crafted master pieces from such luminaries as Messieurs Greubel and Forsey to the throw away market fodder watches from which you’ll get change from a fiver. However, to the non-initiated there are only a few brands that everybody has heard of. Rolex is the immediate example that springs to mind but also most people will probably have heard of Seiko. In most regions this is because of their high quality quartz watches, which they produce over 3,000,000 per year. Therefore, getting back to my opening line, Seiko are mostly recognised for their quartz movement watches and are not known for their high end mechanical masterpieces. Seiko do, in fact, produce about 10,000 mechanical movements each year. Every single one of these movements is produced totally in-house. Seiko even make their own mainsprings, balance springs, synthetic rubies, etc. So why doesn’t anybody seem to know about this? Up until recently these were only ever exclusively available in Japan, where Seiko have a cult-like following. If these had Swiss Made on the dial we would all be proclaiming them as the must-have timepieces to aspire to. What is also extraordinary is that these Japanese wonders are not priced according to their quality. The two Ananta mechanical timepieces presented here are on a par, quality wise, with Breitling, Omega, Tag Heuer and many more less known marques. And yet they are less than half of the price of the equivalent offerings from these brands. It can’t be all about the strength of the Swiss franc against the Yen. I am staggered as to how they have managed to acheive this.

It’s not as if Seiko does not have an illustrious heritage to back up their fantastic products either. Seiko was founded as Seikosha (House of Precision) in 1881 by 22 year old Japanese entrepreneur Kintaro Hattori. In 1892 the first factory was opened to produce their first clocks. In 1895 they manufactured their first pocket watch. In their 130 year history Seiko have been responsible for some of the most technological evolutions in horology over that period. In 1913 the first ever wrist watch in Japan was produced. In 1929 Seiko’s pocket watches were recognised for their quality, reliability and precision when they were appointed as official timekeepers for the Japan National Railway. In 1960 Seiko released their Grand Seiko range which was to rival the quality of most Swiss brands costing twice as much. In 1964 Seiko served as official timekeeper at the 18th Olympic Games, creating 1278 electronic timing devices for every discipline. In 1968 Seiko received the highest ever score in the Geneva Chronometer Competition and was awarded “Best Mechanical Wrist Chronometer”. 1969 was a good year for Seiko as they introduced the first production Quartz watch and the first automatic chronograph with vertical clutch and column wheel. They were only just beaten by a few months for the first ever automatic chronpgraph by a large four company conglomerate in Switzerland. After nearly 30 years in development Seiko released the Spring Drive movement in 1999, which is arguably the greatest horological development in the last 250 years. I appreciate Dr George Daniels may have a strong argument against this point. In 2008 Seiko were chosen specifically to create a watch that could venture beyond the earth’s atmosphere by American space traveller Richard Garriott. Now, that’s a history any watch manufacturer would be proud of.
Let’s also consider the expertise that is available in-house within Seiko. They do not simply churn out tractor movements in their manufacture facilities. Their Grand Seiko models are reportedly on a par with Rolex,etc for their build quality and exemplary finish. Their Credor models are haute hologerie of the very highest order. These models can include complications from minute repeaters to Grand Sonneries.

Fortunately, for us Westerners, Seiko have decided to start introducing some of these high end wonders to different regions.

The Ananta range was introduced by Seiko in 2009 to much acclaim. Ananta is translated as “infinite” in Sankrit, which is fitting because Seiko have tried to design these watches to last the life time of their owners. The original idea behind the project name of Ananta was for the designers to be creative with no boundaries. No limitations were imposed on the movements used, or whether they decided to create completely new ones, the case design and the inspiration and technologies they investigated to create their new masterpiece. Existing proprietary technologies that were used include the “magic lever” bi-directional winding mechanism which was invented in 1959 and their SPRON510 alloy which is used for their own mainsprings and allows for a 72 hour power reserve from a single barrel.

The ground breaking design and style of the case has been transposed from the ancient art of Katana.

A few Ananta models are driven by Seiko’s proprietary Spring Drive movement. Please follow this link to read more about this fascinating and peerless range of wrist watches.

Seiko Ananta Spring Drive – My Review | Andrew Michaels Jewellers

This design philosophy has been principally used on the hour markers, the hands, the case and the automatic winding rotor.

The introductory day-date model can be had for as little as £1500 (correct in 2011) on a leather strap, which is simply mind boggling.

The case, in particular, is flawless. Only five people within the entire Seiko empire have the necessary skills, based on blade polishing, to polish the cases. These cases have been examined at high magnification and have been discovered to be of a much better standard than the standard polishing techniques used in watch making.

The same level of meticulous detail and finishing has been applied to the satin brushed surfaces of the Ananta case aswell. These contrast wonderfully with the immaculately polished sections.

Each dial in the series of timepieces available in the Ananta range are highly detailed to reflect their high end status and yet they also have functionality and legibility as strengths. Every element of the informative dial is given its own unique perspective so that there is no significant hierarchy. Below is a montage of the individual components present on the Automatic Chronograph and Retrograde Day-Date examples:

Legibility, for time function only, is achieved using Seiko’s own incredible luminosity material. Seiko do have some of the best lumes in the business, even on their lower range watches. It is no surprise then that these Ananta models have some of the brightest lume I have ever seen. The hands and hour markers are liberally applied with the material and these will happily glow green even in bright light. When the lights are dimmed, or distinguished completely, it is as bright as if someone had just written the words in the air with a sparkler.

The bracelet is a nice unique design which incorporates a wonderful interplay between satin and polished surfaces with raised middle sections. The crocodile straps come with a deployant clasp. Both options are fantastic quality for watches at this price point.

Both the bracelet and strap versions are very comfortable to wear, given the size and weight of the watch heads themselves. The caseback is subtly curved so that it conforms to the wrist. The Anantas are oversized and substantial, even in today’s market, but I do believe that the detailing and overall unique design allows these particularly oriental inspired timepieces to compliment jeans with a t-shirt or a suit with a dress shirt.

The caseback is not only slightly curved but it incorporates a sapphire glass back to show of the in-house movements. All of these high end elements make me truly marvel at how Seiko have managed to create these watches for the asking price.

In conclusion: I own a Seiko high end watch (Spring Drive GMT) and I love the fact that hardly anybody else knows about the sheer quality of it and the bang for buck that you get with these watches. I like that it takes knowledge to want to own one of these watches and that I have that knowledge. I am running the risk with this article of losing that feeling of smugness about my Seiko Spring Drive GMT but I am prepared to sacrifice this (I’ll still love it anyway, aahhh) by trying to be an evangelist for these great watches. As I mentioned above if these Seikos were more readily obtainable or if they had Swiss Made on the dial we would all be pouring over them like we do over some of the other well known manufactures available from Switzerland. In the numbers that are produced annually I believe they would sell out immediately and premiums would be expected on line. Although not limited editions I feel we would see the kind of strength in their obtainable value only normally associated with such brands as Patek Philippe and Rolex. Everything lines up to make these covetable and collectable timepieces and yet buyers are not lining up. I do hope that Seiko receives the acknowledgment that they deserve in these new territories that they are now starting to distribute amongst. They certainly deserve it. I’m not aware of a watch brand that offers interesting, contemporary timepieces with high end manufacture movements in stunning, unique and perfectly finished cases for such low prices. As a watch collector and vendor I couldn’t recommend anything more. My ultimate testimonial comes in the form of my very own original Spring Drive GMT. However, I am considering an Ananta Chronograph. I am also considering a Grand Seiko Divers. If I could get hold of a Seiko Izul I would happily swap my Submariner for it. If I had the money I would be equally happy pay the £20,000 asking price for a Seiko Spring Drive Space Walk. You’ve probably never even heard of the last two, and that’s the way I like it. There is nothing wrong with being a conformist. If you copy every one else you are pretty much guaranteed to get good quality. This is good for those people who do not have sufficient knowledge to make their own decision. People who buy a high end Seiko are making an educated decision.

All words and pictures by Rick Atkins (unless otherwise stated). This article may not be reproduced in part or in whole without the author’s permission.

 

The post Seiko Anantas Review appeared first on AMJ Watches Blog.

Introduction:

Breitling’s collection of Avenger timepieces has always been a strong family member even alongside the publicly perceived flagship models within the long standing catalogue constituents that are the Navitimers and Chronomats. In fact, the Super Avenger was once the best selling Breitling in the UK. All this whilst being one of the most demanding collection of timepieces to wear, given its size and heft. This potential concern for comfort was eased somewhat when the Avenger II GMT was announced early 2014. 

This new addition to the well admired anthology of The Super Avenger, Avenger, Avenger Chrono and Avenger Seawolf maintains the very same aesthetic that made Avenger lineage so popular but with a new sense of elegance. To put this into perspective the diameters/thicknesses of the above watches are 48mm/18.6mm, 45mm/17.4mm , 45.4mm/18mm  and 45mm/18.5mm , respectively. The Avenger GMT II measures 43mm/12.2mm. This may not sound like a significant revolution but it allows the watch to be worn with a combination of durable heft and everyday comfort that is hard to achieve given the inherent weight of high density 316L stainless steel and sapphire glass.

So, why does the nomenclature incorporate the acronym  GMT? GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time. GMT was internationally adopted in 1884 (ironically the same year Leon Breitling started his watch company). It was, effectively, a reference time for the entire globe. Greenwich in London was the reference point and all other time zones were calculated from this well known position. GMT was, historically, a pilot’s complication before the advent of the computerised mega-displays of post WWII cockpits. With GMT (now UTC: Universal Time Co-ordinated) being the accepted global time for all airports, stations and bases a pilot needed to be able to quickly refer to his watch to decipher his home timezone (take off), destination timezone (landing) and GMT. Instead of being made redundant by the upgraded technology enabling easier flight the GMT function has now come into its own for anyone who regularly travels or needs to know 2^nd timezones through work (conference calls) and pleasure (what time does the game kick off in Brazil?). There is a wealth of information on the history and significance of GMT to be found on the world wide web which I would recommend investigating.

Specification and Details:

A true luxury timepiece is defined by its ability to tell the time, plus any additional complications, accurately and reliably. It is as simple as that. So how does a brand set itself apart? The answer is in the details. This doesn’t necessarily characterise the aesthetics but it should allow it to be distinguished and recognised. This has long been one of the strengths of Breitling’s Avenger family: instant identification The Avenger II GMT incorporates these features and adds to them. A strong aesthetic, water resistance, legibility and functionality.

Here are the specifications of the Avenger II GMT:

The displays include the time, date, second time zone from GMT hand and third time zone by utilising the incrementally bi-directional bezel.

It is water resistance to 300m WR, which is more than enough for anyone and allows the case to be hermetically sealed. This protects the Calibre 32 movement which has a 42 hour power reserve, 21 jewels, a running cadence of 28800 vibrations per hour and is Chronometer rated (meaning that it has been tested by a third party to achieve the ultimate in accuracy for a mechanical movement of this size).

The impressive water resistance is made possible by the screw down crown, with double gaskets and the screw down caseback. The crown is knurled to allow easy winding and setting of the time, date and GMT. The crown is protected by subtly chamfered guards which are incorporated into the case.

As mentioned before, the diameter is 43mm and it has a very wearable thickness of 12.2mm. The weight (head only) is 93 grams. Compare this to the 159.2grams of its much heavier but also much more water resistant sibling the Avenger Seawolf. This makes the watch a class leader in comfort. In fact, given that the watch is so strong and dependable under any conditions it is remarkable that you do not know you are wearing it. This removes the often disparaging comments of similar watches about wrist fatigue, whereby the watch becomes uncomfortable, bordering on annoying, after extended wear.

Options for conceiving your very own Avenger II GMT include black, blue or cream dials with the choice of batons or numerals. To attach the watch to yourself you have range of straps that include Leather, Diver Pro III rubber, Ocean Racer Rubber or a Professional III bracelet in surgical grade 316L steel, to match the case.

The above is impressive in it’s self but here are the design elements that personify the Avenger II GMT and allow it to rank amongst the most desirable GMT timepieces available.

The bezel is the component that really sets this watch apart for me. The use of one singular piece of LASER engraved steel gives the whole watch a unity and harmony missing in similar watches that utilise a printed aluminium bezel. The resulting aesthetics and interaction are distinctly opulent. The bezel has a solid feel as each timezone hour is incrementally adjusted. The raised quarter markers for the 6, 12, 18 and luminous dot at 24 are wonderfully bevelled giving a strong visual that is reminiscent of a stadium stanchion, with the time being played out within its confines. The sunburst satin finish also exudes adroit design to reflect the high end nature of this timepiece and is the ideal contrast to the polished case.

The slightness of the seconds hand also alludes to this elegance as the wearer is often only immediately aware of three hands circumnavigating the dial, which we are all used to. Once again the GMT complication only becomes truly apparent when you go looking for it.

Many GMT watches on the market are seemingly overwhelmed by a proliferation of hands and numbers. They could never aspire to being thought of as stylish. This is another reason why I like the Avenger II GMT.

The slim GMT hand is subtle and yet highly legible through the anodised red coating. This results in a very practical secondary complication not becoming overbearing. 

I really like the unique tramline hour markers. Usually the luminescent material is fully confined within a circular or rectangular applied marker. Breitling have been clever in that the shorter sides are open-ended. This allows for more luminescent material to be applied without cluttering the dial with oversized markers. 

And, speaking of luminescence, the current and GMT times will remain legible long after lights out.

I love this watch. It offers all the constructional and design quality plus the given dependability of the rest of the highly regarded Avenger range without the given heft of a chronograph timepiece.

My personal favourite is the black dial version on the flawlessly polished Professional III bracelet. The subtle flashes of red on the seconds hand tip and the “Automatic” script work well with the monochromatic dial.

The blue dial offers a more contemporary sports styling whilst the cream dial offers a historical, almost nostalgic, option.

Please follow the official Breitling link below to view all options:

Conclusion:

There’s a section in a well known Supermarket chain in the UK that my wife and I frequent  entitled “Taste the Difference”. This is where you immediately go if you are bothered about food and drink as a luxury and are prepared to pay for it. If you aren’t bothered and you simply want sustenance then you walk straight by. Simple. If you are at all bothered about luxury timepieces and are prepared to pay for them then you walk straight to the Breitling counter at your local Authorised Dealers. You can, quite simply, see and feel the difference. I hate to keep repeating the phrase but it is all about luxury. That added value within an everyday item that propels it from “need to have” to “want to have”.

The Avenger II GMT is a definite case in point: At first glance this is a generic steel watch that simply tells the time. You need to spend time (ironically) with this superbly elegant and yet sporty timepiece to really appreciate the minutiae of the myriad of clever, subtle and well thought out details and design elements. Examples include the LASER engraved bezel and anodised red (and yet discrete) GMT hand. These two elements add two extra timezones to this watch and yet they do not detract from the classical simple aesthetic. The entire watch has been finished with a care and dedication that reflects a brand that is aware of what is required to be in the over-subscribed world of the high-end sports watch. This fit and finish and use of the high grade materials instantly instils a feeling of reliability and trust.

The Avenger family of watches has always been utilitarian. The case materials have only ever been steel or Blacksteel (DLC). The Avenger II GMT fits in perfectly, and yet it adds an element of elegance not evident previously.

They say, whoever “they” are, that “Time is a Luxury”. The Avenger II GMT reappraises this statement in that it is a true luxury item that conveys the time. Well, times actually. Three of them at the same time should the owner choose.

I have no real criticism of the Avenger II GMT. I would have preferred the watch to have the jumping hour function, whereby the hour hand is adjusted instead of the GMT hand when you need to adjust to a second time zone. Although I understand the historical significance, I think the fake patina of the lume material that is coupled with the Cream dial is a bit irrelevant for a watch design that is so otherwise contemporary. As a well informed reviewer and life-long watch geek I believe it is my god-given rite to expose negative aspects of the timepieces I am given to critique. So I applaud Breitling in making me seem petty minded with my lame attempt at criticism above.

In summary, The Avenger GMT II offers everything from a watch of this type that allows it to become a lifetime companion through classically elegant design, ultimate wearablity and comfort, reliability and user friendly functionality.

A high-end timepiece needs to offer so much more than time telling. It needs to evoke emotions in the wearer and it needs to do this reliably and accurately. No matter what the conditions. So wherever your travels, or your current dreams of future travels, take you, be it hot, cold, wet, dusty, etc,  Breitling’s Avenger II GMT will be able to let you know, with precision, your local timezone, your home timezone , the time of your cross continental conference call, your kid’s bed times, the opening times of the world’s stock exchanges, the kick off/face off of the current World sports tournament or just plain old GMT.

All words and images by Richard Atkins of Andrew Michaels Jewellers. This article may not copied be in part or in whole without the permission of the author.

The post Breitling Avenger II GMT – A32390 appeared first on AMJ Watches Blog.

The Chronomat Evolution has long been Breitling’s “Flagship” model and their most successful, as far as sales, in many territories. Breitling used the basics of this ageless design when they introduced the new Blackbird in 2006. This watch differed from the Evo in that it had a large date feature. It was named after the Blackbird SR-71 High Altitude Reconnaissance Aircraft. I say “new” Blackbird because this model should not be confused with the original Blackbird that was introduced in 1996 and its successor from 2002 to 2004 (ref 13353). These models were very similar to the Chronomat Evos of their time. The 1996 version differed by having a completely brushed matt finish to case, crown, pushers and bracelet, “SERIE SPECIALE” in red over the 12-hour sub-dial and “BLACKBIRD” on the dial instead of “CHRONOMAT”.

The ref 133353 was slightly wider and used a different bezel.

The Lockheed Blackbird SR-71 High Altitude Reconnaissance Aircraft was an advanced, long-range, Mach 3+ strategic reconnaissance aircraft. It was developed as a black project from the Lockheed A-12 reconnaissance aircraft in the 1960s by the Lockheed Skunk Works. Clarence “Kelly” Johnson was responsible for many of the design’s innovative concepts. During reconnaissance missions the SR-71 operated at high speeds and altitudes to allow it to outrace threats. If a surface-to-air missile launch was detected, the standard evasive action was simply to accelerate and outrun the missile. The SR-71 was the first operational aircraft designed around a stealthy shape and materials that were designed to reduce its radar signature.

 

On 28 July 1976 the SR-71 also broke the world record for its class with an “absolute altitude record” of 85,069 feet (25,929 m).
The SR-71 also holds the “Speed Over a Recognized Course” record for flying from New York to London, with a distanceof 3,508 miles (5,646 km) at 1,435.587 miles per hour (2,310.353 km/h) and an elapsed time of 1 hour 54 minutes and 56.4 seconds on 1 September 1974. As a reference the best time recorded for a Concorde flight was 2 hours and 52 minutes. A Boeing 747 averages 6 hours and 15 minutes.
The SR-71 served with the U.S. Air Force from 1964 to 1998. Of the 32 aircraft built, 12 were destroyed in accidents, and none lost to enemy action. Since 1976, it has held the world record for the fastest air-breathing manned aircraft, a record previously held by the YF-12.
The SR-71 BlackBird cost $34 million. Significantly more than the Breitling Blackbird.
Thanks to Wikipedia for this information. I admit to knowing very little about aircraft.

The most popular watch by a particular brand does not necessarily translate to that watch being their best model. However, Breitling owners and collectors are most often totally aware of what they are buying, with reference to quality, accuracy, craftsmanship, reliability, etc. Therefore, it can certainly be assumed that the most admired Breitling model will be one of its very best.

So, it should go without saying that the latest Blackbird, with its large date complication, was of particular interest to fans and collectors.

 

 

 

To then have a model that maintains the attributes of this superb model with added features of true interest must make the Blackbird Red Strike one of the best ETA driven models ever made. Well, I wouldn’t argue with that and it will be my pleasure to highlight why.

The element that is most immediately striking on the, ahem, Red Strike, is the red detailing that sets it apart from the standard Blackbird. The colour chosen isn’t letter box red. More like a blood red, which is more luxuriant in its appearance in my opinion. This new hue has been applied to the double date window, the subdials, the chronograph seconds hand and the tachymetre.

 

I’ve always loved the large date display on the Blackbird. This relatively simple change has given the Blackbird a whole new character over the Chronomat Evo. The subdials have been shuffled round by 90°, and the applied logo is now at the 12 O’clock position where it looks so much better.

 

I’ve always thought the new large date window was relevantly reminiscent of mid 1900s aircraft displays. It is, of course, also very practical compared to the standard single aperture date display, which is constrained by the disc that has to carry 31 numbers at its perimeter.
The subdials have received a red border and a red seconds hand. This has neither added nor detracted from legibility or functionality over the standard model. It has, however, added further desirability.

 

I’ve always liked the raised tachymetre chapter ring on the Chronomat Evo models. The deep red accents on the Red Strike emphasise this feature further and makes for a nice border to the whole unique dial.

As with all sapphire glasses that have an anti-reflective UV coating the Blackbird Red Strike is vunerable to the blue hue as a result. This is slightly detrimental to the Black/Red amalgamation on the dial. A small detail but worthy of note.

One feature of this Limited Edition Blackbird that is not so immediately evident is the LASER etched edition number. This has been applied to the side of the case and is a constant reminder to the lucky owner that he is a member of a small club worldwide.

This leads me into one of the features that I am disappointed about with this exclusive model: Why did Breitling choose to have the standard Chronomat Evo caseback instead of the unique Blackbird caseback? With the Limited Edition number on the side of the case this was feasible.

 

While I’m having a reasonably insignificant whinge I’d like to point you in the direction of the pushers. Yes, I appreciate that these screwdown collars prevent usage underwater and maintain an impressive 300m water resistance but they are a bit of a pain to use in real world situations. I do like their aesthetics but this could have been achieved without the screwdown element of the collars. One element of the Chronomat Evo range that I have always loved is the semi-conical crown. It might be semi-conical but it is fully iconical. It is wonderful to behold and a pleasure to use.

 

The bezel is another feature that was re-designed for the Blackbird. I always liked the signature bezels that Breitling create with their rider tabs and LASER etched rehaut. The standard Chronomat Evo utilises a minutes display, which aids timing operations. The Blackbird’s bezel utilises a compass display with the rider tabs incorporating N, S, E, W. Timings are still possible but are not as accessible.

 

The Chronomat Evo has always been just the right size in my opinion. Its wide and deep enough to feel substantial and yet not too big that it becomes overbearing and uncomfortable. In fact, even on my smaller than average wrists the Blackbird Red Strike sits perfectly and is continuously comfortable with no fatigue.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Add to this the best bracelet available from Breitling, who are famous for their bracelets, and you are left with a timepiece that has equal amounts of casual and dress code accessorising credentials. I truly love this bracelet: I constantly marvel at the combination of satin facia and polished edges, the intricate yet strong linkage design and the secure, beautifully finished and designed clasp. Sometimes a bracelet can detract from the case or face of a watch as it vies for its own attention. Some watches simply work better on straps. The Pilot bracelet enhances the whole wearing and owning experience.

 

As with all Breitling tool watches the luminosity is impressive. Exposure to even the dullest of daylights can charge the lume up so that it jumps right out of the dial in lit areas. After sunset it truly comes in to its own and lasts until sunrise.

 

In conclusion: The Blackbird Red Strike, which sounds like an oxymoron but makes so much sense, is truly greater than the sum of its many interesting parts. The Chronomat Evo was justifiably lauded by watch fans and the press alike. The Blackbird built on its beautifully designed foundations to offer even more. Now the Red Strike takes this covetable timepiece and makes it yet even more again. The red detailing is thoughtfully restrained and yet immediately evident. The bracelet is the best on the market at this price point, period. The entirely satin brushed case is meticulously applied and is a reflection of Breitling’s dominant position in its intended market. The LASER etched limited edition number on the side of the mirror polished case is further evidence that this timepiece is incredibly special.
If I were to criticise the Black Bird Red Strike in any way I would have liked to have seen the original and unique caseback design carried over from the standard production model. The limited edition identification is on the side of the case so this would have been easy to do. I’ve always thought the hands should be the same width as the markers, but I realise this is subjective and nit-picking in the extreme. The screw down pusher guards are always a bit of a pain to use. The blue hue cast by the UV coating is detrimental to the black and red on the dial. However, that is what I have been reduced to because I cannot really find fault with this exceptional timepiece. It is the most utilitarian, robust, beautiful, well-crafted, collectable and covetable ETA driven Breitling available today. A word of warning though: If you’re reading this after March 2012 exchange “available today” to “that was available” because the last few of these are sure to find happy owners soon.

All words and images by Rick Atkins, unless otherwise stated. This article may not be reproduced in part or whole without the permission of the author.

 

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Introduction.

I feel sorry for Breitling in some regards. No, really. Let me explain:

This pioneering brand have built up a fantastic reputation for designing and creating iconic, ageless tool watches. During their gestation period on the drawing board these timepieces would have been pre-labelled “Aviation”, “Diving”, etc, etc. However, these watches are just as relevant and practical to the everyman as they are to the professions they are originally intended. Breitling have the knack of creating fit-for-purpose timepieces that are almost elegant in the way they can transcend age, gender and environment, be it down the sports field or with a sports jacket.
I do believe this is why the incredibly knowledgeable and strong worldwide Breitling fanbase did not react so positively to some of the recent contemporary designs that have been presented by Breitling. Why change something that was near perfect already? There was definitely a furore instead of a furor.
It is to Breitling’s credit that there is such a commonly recognised talking point on forums, etc, as Breitling DNA. Apparently, according to this passionate fraternity, the new models do not retain this.
I must admit that I initially did not embrace some of the new designs with open arms. However, I was also guilty of publicly lambasting Lotus when they replaced the James Bond Esprit design in the early 1980s. How wrong was I and how much did I come to love the replacement?
This is, of course, subjective but it could have had deep ramifications if Breitlings bravery and conviction in their new designs had alienated potential customers.
One thing that has, therefore, delighted me is that we (Andrew Michael’s Jewellers) sell many of the new designs. We get owners wanting to trade their previous generation models, which is great. What is so much more gratifying, though, is that when we welcome young or new Breitling clients into the shop, and hand them the 2012 catalogue, most of them immediately react positively to the new contemporary models. This is vindication enough for me that Breitling have, once again, produced watches for the current and next generation.
Features.
So, let’s simply view the SuperOcean 42 Abyss as a fabulous diver’s timepiece with all the attributes required to be recognised as such.

The important specification of Water Resistance is 1500m.

To put this into perspective I know of seasoned recreational divers who have only ever been to a maximum depth of 35m. Professional divers, for whom this watch would have been originally intended for, rarely dive beyond 100m. The water resistance, therefore, may seem like over indulgent folly but it does mean that the case of the SuperOcean Abyss is hermetically sealed and impervious to moisture and dust, which is important for the Chronometer rated, 150-odd component, automatic mechanical Calibre 17 movement.

Other must-haves for a Diver’s timepiece are all catered for:
The bi-directional bezel is totally new with respect to any previous Breitling diver’s watch. The main insert is rubber. A really nice design detail is the integrated italic numerals that are machined to be flush to the rubber.

This turns a utilitarian rubber bezel, which is a material not normally associated with high-end, into something aesthetically pleasing of meticulous finish and worthy of inclusion with the remainder of the components. The one complaint I would level at the new bezel is the exclusion of the usual Breitling pointer and luminous marker at the 12 O’clock position. Whether this makes elapsed time readings difficult to judge or is merely an incidental characteristic is up to the individual. It doesn’t particularly bother me.
The dial and hands are incredibly legible in all conditions. The oversized hands harmonise with the large italic numerals. When the light fades the liberal amounts of superluminova applied to the hands, markers and indices come to life. The date window is equally as easy to read.

Other nice aesthetic details include the applied Breitling logo, applied hour markers and italic numerals.

The sapphire glass has been coated both sides with an anti-glare coating to facilitate time reading under water. This is true of all Breitling sapphire glasses, in fact.
Breitling introduced a unique pseudo personalisation element to the SuperOcean Abyss for the first time. The Abyss can be bought in different colour themes. The individual details that are colour coded include the seconds hand, the chapter ring, the “Superocean” script and the date window.

This has been so successful it has been included in the new SuperOcean Chronograph II and SuperOcean 44.
Please see my review here:
2011 SuperOceans – A comparison and introduction – A1739102/A1334102 | Andrew Michaels Jewellers
My favourite of the new Abyss models is the Limited Edition “Orange” model highlighted above. Only 2000 of these have been produced. Each example has its individual limited edition number LASER engraved on the caseback.

This example also introduced Breitling’s new colour coded leather strap. For such a thick, robust strap these are very comfortable straight out of the box.

However, my favourite standard model is highlighted below:
This is the “white” version as can be seen in the chapter ring, date window and seconds hand. This example is sporting the wonderful Ocean Racer rubber strap on the brilliant adjustable deployment clasp. I prefer the “white” model because the white chapter ring reminds me of the white wall tyres of the classic cars that I covet. You’ll have your own reason for choosing from the “blue”, “red”, “yellow” or “black” models.




Conclusion.

There will always be models that are very much lamented when they are withdrawn from any brand’s catalogue. Due to Breitling’s strong designs this will often be the case.
So, it seems it is time (pun intended) to move on and embrace the new. Design will always be subjective but quality, reliability and accuracy will not.
The SuperOcean 42 Abyss is a superb addition to Breitling’s catalogue. It offers all three of the above pre-requisite criteria plus it is comfy to wear whilst being incredibly strong, highly legible whilst being very detailed and fit-for-purpose whilst being beautifully finished.
The 42mm does immediately seem small. However, this is an optical illusion caused by its larger siblings. 42mm is neither too small for this genre or too large to become cumbersome and fatiguing to wear. It is the perfect size for my 6.5” wrists.

I loved the outgoing Breitling SuperOcean. It remained in Breitling’s catalogue in very similar designs for nearly two decades. Some may argue that it did not need to be removed from the catalogue ever, a la Navitimer. Breitling saw different. They often have in their 125+ year history. It is one of the main reasons they have remained at the very top of their game for so long. I welcome the new SuperOcean Abyss. It may take a while for it to become a Breitling classic, to add to the long list of Breitling classics. I now prefer it over the outgoing model and I know many who have embraced it also. In my opinion Breitling have successfully overhauled a classic divers watch to allow them to continue to offer one of the best value high end tool watches on the market.

All words and images by Richard Atkins unless otherwise stated. This article may not be produced in whole or in part without permission from the author.

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When Andrew Michaels asked me to review the Navitimer 01 Limited Edition I was guilty of being no more excited about getting my hands on this very rare and collectable watch than any other high end wrist watch. That is to say that I was, of course, excited but not to the extent that I would have been if I had realised what I was actually being lent to produce this review. I confess I was a little naive when the Navitimer 01 was announced.

I was incredibly interested at the news, last year, that a Limited Edition Navitimer was going to be released with Breitling’s new in-house movement, the Calibre 01, but was, ultimately, a little disappointed when I first saw the press photos of the Navitimer 01 and heard the recommended retail price of £6000. I was left thinking “Is that it?”. The most important movement in Breitling’s long and illustrious history and they take a standard Navitimer and change the seconds hand and date display colours. However, I now sit here with this extraordinary wrist watch and I realise I was totally wrong and, as usual, Breitling were absolutely spot on with the design of this Limited Edition timepiece. I do actually now feel a little bit of pressure as I realise I may not be able to convey just how special the Navitimer 01 is.

 The immediate realisation is that this is something special. A sense of something that has been designed for the type of person who is aware of their achievements in life. Someone who takes great inner pride in their successful choices. No need to shout about it. No need to have everyone else know about it. Their satisfaction comes from finally arriving at this privileged and deserved destination. A position that few encounter and that the big decisions in life have lead them to. Now, safe in this well versed knowledge and armed with confidence and wisdom, they are able to revel in one of the true timeless luxury items this position allows.

The Navitimer 01 is a fairly discrete watch. Given a brief glimpse most watch fans could guess it was the iconic Navitimer you were wearing and you would receive admiring glances, maybe the odd complementary comment, for that reason alone. Not many would realise that you are the fortunate owner of the much covetable and collectable Navitimer 01, with the class leading Calibre 01 ticking away beneath. What are the chances of them spotting the applied Breitling logo and the red chronograph seconds hand? The only two barely visible design elements that give away the fact that this is something to cherish. Something very unique. This is the kind of watch that would gain you incredible respect when that rare occasion of a fellow watch fanatic spots what you are actually wearing. They’ll respect you for your taste and, no doubt, will be in awe of the fact that you possess the knowledge and understanding of high quality, technologically advanced and iconic timepieces.
Even as professional and fantastic as they were the original press release pictures (see below) didn’t capture the true beauty and class of the Navitimer 01, so my amateur pictures have got no chance.

What you do miss on simply viewing the press pictures is the amazing contrast between the hour markers and hands against the stark black dial. As these highly polished elements reflect the light they jump right out of the dial in some pseudo three dimensional effect that is quite simply stunning and a true reflection of the quality of finish on the components. Even this amazing press picture doesn’t come close.

So, just why were we expecting so much after the announcement of the Navitimer 01? The perfect marriage of brand new in-house chronograph movement with the oldest mechanical chronograph still in production. The Navitimer remains a part of Breitling’s catalogue not because they are in any way lazy and cannot be bothered to design a replacement but because the Navitimer, justifiably, continues to sell and can easily be considered as their flagship, representative wrist watch. An icon in the true sense of the word. The Navitimer carries with it tremendous heritage. I really like the fact that the Navitimer 01 represents Breitlings illustrious history and their manufacture status future. A representation of two major milestones and a true reflection of their past and present aspirations:

There is very little doubt in my mind that when Leon Breitling introduced the Navitimer in 1952 he had no idea that he was on the verge of creating an iconic classic. Indeed it took Breitling three years, until 1955, to officially register the Navitimer. Up to this point it had received no official publicity. However, word of mouth soon created a demand for this incredibly useful timepiece. A timepiece that would represent and reflect Breitlings aspirations to this very day, nearly 60 years later. However, all he was trying to do was simply provide a wrist instrument that performed a specific set of functions for pilots and aviation fanatics around the world. These functions are no more prominent than the slide rule bezel. A tool that, using the bezel of the Navitimer, allowed the user, in the early 1950s, to perform all calculations required for airborne navigation. A wrist worn computer, if you like.

Please see my description on each of these functions at

How to use your Circular Sliderule | Andrew Michaels Jewellers

Of course, today Pilots have real computers to perform these life saving tasks for them but the Navitmer’s slide rule still remains a useful feature. In fact, I use mine for such whimsical calculations as transposing KmPH to MPH during the motorcycling TV productions to useful functions such as setting it to read off a currency conversion for any country I visit.

The Navitimer was an immediate hit and soon became the official watch of the AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) the largest body of professional and amateur pilots in the world. It has been in continuous production since 1952 and is the oldest Chronograph in history. There is simply nothing out there that can compete with its unique looks and functionality and yet still possess incredible legibility and ease of use. Easily the most important timepiece Breitling has ever created and the perfect vehicle for the new in-house Calibre 01 movement. An absolute timeless and classic wrist instrument that is instantly recognised and revered across the planet. Since the original 806 model was introduced nearly 60 years ago the Navitimer has remained unchanged in design and principle, and rightly so.

The Navitimer later proved its position as the world’s leading aviation timepiece when it was worn by Scott Carpenter (albeit in 24 hour dial form, aka the Cosmonaute) on board the Aurora 7 capsule in 1962, making it, allegedly, the first wrist worn chronograph in Space.

Couple this amazing timepiece with Breitling’s first in-house movement and it seems the perfect marriage was destined.

The movement of the Navitimer is given away in its name: The brand new in-house Calibre 01. For a history and full technical review of this incredible new chronograph movement, designed, developed and constructed entirely by Breitling please see my blog at

Breitling Calibre 01 – A History | Andrew Michaels Jewellers

However, as a brief introduction I will say that this movement surpassed all expectations that both Breitling themselves and fans of the brand had. Totally in-house (manufacture) chronographs rare, due to their complexity. However, Breitling had the foresight and experience to make the Calibre 01 accurate enough to pass all COSC testing (as per the entire catalogue of Breitlings), user friendly (with very well thought out features such as 70 hours power reserve, quick set date at any time of the day and column wheel chronograph) and also an industry first manufacturing and assembly process that allows them to produce large volumes of high quality movements.

I found this particular example to be very accurate and the manual winding (when required) was as smooth as I had witnessed. Then, of course, you have the amazing view of this class leading chronograph movement through the sapphire glass exhibition case back:

So, why my sudden change of heart? Why do I now believe that Breitling have managed to do both of these amazing designs proud? The perfect amalgamation of fuselage and engine. The perfect combination of watch design and movement? The most significant Breitling ever? A reflection of the heart (Calibre 01) and soul (aviation) of the brand?

As is the case with many luxury objects it wasn’t until I got to hold, wear and admire the Navitimer 01 in person that I truly appreciated it. The Navitimer 01 is exactly what a Breitling should be in my opinion. It is such an old adage “The pictures do not do it justice”. As I mentioned and highlighted above even the exceptional Breitling press pictures cannot reflect the true beauty and craftsmanship of this wonderful timepiece.

Here are a few of my humble attempts. However, do yourself a favour: If you get the chance to try on and handle the Navitimer 01 then take it.

My first impressions upon opening the Bakelite box was “That’s actually really nice”. Then when I got a chance to handle it and flip it over to reveal the exhibition caseback I thought “Now, that is what this watch is all about”. However, it wasn’t until I was lucky enough to wear the watch on my wrist did I get a true feeling for it and realised that the dimensions, weight, feel, materials, design elements and finish were all meticulously thought out and realised. I can honestly say that the Navitimer 01 is the perfect showcase for the amazing Calibre 01.

You could understand if Breitling had created some over-designed showcase for the 01 Calibre. It must have been tempting to create something that shouted to the world “Hey, look here, in-house chronograph movement, how about that then?”. Fortunately, Breitling realised that the Navitimer has remained a popular wrist watch for nearly 60 years because it is a wonderful design that seems to be able to convey so much information with so little fuss. The little design touches added to this Limited Edition Navitimer are merely there for the lucky owner to be reminded, if need be, that they own something truly special. I believe that it is the understated cool of this classic and timeless design coupled with the state-of-the-art technology that makes it such a refreshing change in this horological world of uber-designed watches that just seem to be trying too hard.

Here are a few of the features and design elements that make up the desirable whole:

Breitling timepieces with sapphire case backs are a rarity. Indeed they can be counted on one hand. The 01 Calibre is such a fantastic looking movement that it almost demands this voyeuristic feature. I also love the whole design of the caseback. The rounded edges. The classic font type. Very classy. One of the best looking case backs ever in my opinion.

As mentioned above the hands and indices have been beautifully polished to a mirror-like finish. This allows the dial to be as multifaceted as a disco ball.

I was a little concerned when I first saw the press pictures of the Limited Edition number engraved on the side of the case. However, in reality this is very discrete and I do appreciate that there is a lack of real estate on an exhibition case back such as this, which is the perfect size to view the Calibre 01 movement.

Another nice addition over the standard Navitimer is the applied Breitling logo in 18ct white or red gold. Just another subtle indication that this timepiece is special.

I love the art-deco influenced monochromatic dial of this Navitimer. Not only is it very aesthetically pleasing and well balanced but it aids legibility. The dial is produced using the sophisticated technique of epargne on a solid silver or gold base. The red chronograph hand adds the right amount of colour and contrasts wonderfully against the black and silver as it glides round the dial.

The burgundy date display is very classy. However, it does look black most of the time and, as mentioned below, I’m not sure I wouldn’t have preferred it in the same bright red of the seconds hand. Catch it in the right light and it is aesthetically pleasing though.

The black leather strap with white stitching on this example is just one of the strap bracelet combinations available. The others are black crocodile with white stitching, for even more class, and the outrageous Air Racer bracelet. As much as I love the Air Racer bracelet I’m not sure it fits in with the concept of this discrete classic. However, if you do wish to add a little more of an attraction to the Navitimer 01 then this is the perfect way to do it.

The lume is suitably applied. That is to say that the time is perfectly legible with the minimum amount applied to the hour and minute hands as well as the tips of the hour markers. As with all Breitlings I have witnessed after lights out it is very bright and will last throughout the night.

Other highlights include the increase in diameter to 43mm, from the standard model’s 41.8mm, the cambered sapphire crystal which has been glareproofed on both sides and the iconic rotating bezel with integrated slide rule calculator.

Given the opportunity I would have designed a few things differently, although I am not complaining because Breitling have got so much right with the Navitimer 01. First of all I would have made the seconds hand, slide rule details and date display the same colour throughout. In isolation they all work perfectly but together on the same 35mm dial I think there is a little mis-match.

Secondly, I would not have placed the Limited Edition number on the side of the case. It does not fit in with the discrete nature of this timepiece in my opinion. Next, I would have used Arabic numbers instead of the applied indices. Aesthetically, I actually prefer the indices but I think there is a great opportunity here to revert to the original dial design, which would give a historical interest and relevance to the dial. I do realise that these are purely subjective opinions.

Also, I would have swapped the buckle on the leather band to a folding clasp. I believe those people entertaining the idea of buying a Navitimer 01 would not have been put off by the extra cost over the buckle option and would have been rewarded with a much easier way to remove and re-adorn the watch after having had another admiring look at the exhibition case back and its stunning view of the in-house movement. My final point is aimed at the B01 movement itself. The 70 hour power reserve is something to be applauded and proud of. I would never add a power reserve indicator to the dial of the Navitimer 01 because it does not fit at all. I also believe this would not suit the B01 as well. However, adding an indicator to the movement itself, seen through the Sapphire case back, would be special. I do appreciate that the catalogue versions of the B01 and Navitimer 01 will not have exhibition case backs so this may not be logistically and financially viable.

Fear not, if you are not one of the lucky 2000 who get to own one of these stainless steel, or the 200 red gold, Limited Editions of the Navitimer 01 because Breitling have announced that they will be releasing a standard version into their catalogue which should be available from Spring 2011. Rumour has it that there will be no exhibition case back on the catalogue versions though, which is a crying shame in my opinion.

In conclusion, I think the Limited Edition Navitimer 01 hits all the right notes:

Sorry about that. Now you know why I felt under pressure to convey the true beauty and wonderment of this incredibly desirable, significant, understated, elegant, state-of-the-art, classy, perfectly formed and collectable timepiece.

As always I would just like to take this opportunity to thank Andrew Michaels Jewellers for lending me this Navitimer 01.

All words and pictures by Richard Atkins and Breitling (unless otherwise stated). Please ask if you wish to reproduce any of the material in this article.

 

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